How to Run the Dead Pixel Test
Testing for dead pixels takes under two minutes. The tool cycles your entire screen through solid colors — any pixel that doesn't match the background color immediately stands out.
- Clean your screen first. Wipe with a dry, lint-free cloth. Dust and fingerprints mimic dead pixels on bright backgrounds and will waste your time.
- Launch the test above. Press the Launch button and then press F to enter fullscreen for the most accurate scan.
- Cycle through all six colors. Use ← and → to advance: Black → White → Red → Green → Blue → Gray. Spend 5–10 seconds on each, scanning corner to corner.
- Look for pixels that don't match. Any dot that's the wrong color for its background is either a dead or stuck pixel.
Dim the room slightly if possible — higher contrast makes small defects easier to catch.
What to Look for on Each Color
Each background color reveals a different type of defect:
- Black screen: Bright or colored dots are stuck pixels — one or more sub-pixels locked in the on state.
- White screen: Black or dark dots are dead pixels — transistor failure, no power to the pixel.
- Red, Green, Blue screens: A pixel that doesn't match the solid color has sub-pixel failure. A dark dot on red means the red sub-pixel is dead; a bright dot of a different color means a sub-pixel is stuck.
- Gray screen: Pixels noticeably brighter or darker than the uniform gray indicate partial sub-pixel defects.
Run through all six colors before concluding your screen is clear. A dead pixel invisible on black becomes obvious on white.
Dead Pixel vs Stuck Pixel — The Key Difference
| Dead Pixel | Stuck Pixel | |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Always black | Fixed color — red, green, blue, or white |
| Cause | Transistor failure | Sub-pixel locked on |
| Visible on black? | No | Yes |
| Visible on white? | Yes | Yes |
| Fixable? | Rarely | Sometimes |
The practical difference: stuck pixels are sometimes fixable. Pixel-cycling software rapidly flashes the affected area through all colors to attempt to unstick the sub-pixel. Try the dead pixel fix tool before assuming permanent damage. True dead pixels almost never recover.
What to Do If You Find One
1. Try the fix tool if the dot has color. A colored dot (not black) is a stuck pixel — run the dead pixel fix tool first. Stuck pixels sometimes recover without any warranty claim.
2. Check your return window. Most retailers offer 14–30 days for defective products. Within this window, one dead pixel qualifies for an exchange regardless of manufacturer threshold. Test immediately after purchase — this is your strongest position.
3. Know the ISO 13406-2 Class II standard. Most consumer monitors are rated Class II, which allows up to 2 Type 1 (bright) and 2 Type 2 (dark) pixel defects before replacement is required. A single dead pixel technically falls within tolerance on most brands. See the dead pixel warranty guide for per-brand policies.
4. Document it. Photograph the pixel on both white and black backgrounds before contacting support. This establishes the defect clearly and protects your claim.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a dead pixel?
A dead pixel is a pixel on an LCD or OLED screen that has permanently stopped working. The transistor controlling it has failed, leaving it permanently dark regardless of what the display shows around it.
What does a dead pixel look like on a monitor?
On a white background, a dead pixel appears as a tiny black dot — a pinhole of darkness that never changes. On a black background, a true dead pixel is completely invisible. Stuck pixels are different: they show a fixed color (red, green, blue, or white) and are visible on both light and dark backgrounds.
Can a dead pixel fix itself?
Rarely. True dead pixels — the always-black type — almost never recover spontaneously. Stuck pixels have better odds and sometimes respond to pixel-cycling software. If the defect is within warranty, manufacturer replacement is the most reliable solution.
Is one dead pixel on a new monitor acceptable?
It depends on the manufacturer's policy. Most brands follow ISO 13406-2 Class II, which allows up to 2 dark pixel defects before replacement is warranted. Dell Ultrasharp, LG OLED qualifying models, and ASUS ProArt all offer zero dead pixel guarantees — one pixel anywhere qualifies for free replacement on those lines.
Dead pixel vs stuck pixel — what's the difference?
A dead pixel is always black; a stuck pixel shows a fixed color. Dead pixels result from transistor failure; stuck pixels result from sub-pixels locked in the on state. Stuck pixels are sometimes fixable with pixel-cycling software. Dead pixels almost never recover.